Archive for the Woodworking Category

Drop Point Hunter Knife Pattern

Posted in knifemaking, Tool Making, Woodworking on December 2, 2015 by Jim

No tutorial today, but process pics.

I am working on a drop point hunting knife and was not sure from my sketches if it was going to feel how I wanted. I needed to hold it.

WoodenDropPointHunterParts

I ground the blade just as if it was steel – but it is cherry. I also roughed in the guard and handle in walnut.

DropPointHunterFinished

Here it is with the ‘blade’ glued in and the handle shaped.

It might seem silly to rough it out all in wood – but holding it in my hand told me what I needed to know. If all goes well, I will post pics of the real knife soon. This one is a drag to keep sharp…

Happy Making,

Jim

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Lets make a wooden fishing lure

Posted in Fishing, Fishing Lures, Wood Carving, Woodworking with tags , , , on March 10, 2014 by Jim

Summer fishing season is Coming!

I am bringing this post over from an older blog of mine because it is time! Today, it is warm here – windows open short sleeves warm – so here you go:

I remember digging in my uncle Doug’s tackle box as a kid and being mesmerized.  I was none too fond of the smell of his catfish bait. It was home made stuff – imagine fish kimchee in a mason jar… Regardless, I  love the look of wooden fishing lures.   It is possible (and pretty fun) to make a few simple lures on your own without any expensive tools.

You will need:

  • A 5/8″ dowel from the hardware store
  • The smallest screw eyes you can find, also from the hardware store
  • Sandpaper (60, 100, 150 grits or close would be fine)
  • A wood rasp can also help speed up the shaping
  • Paint of your choice (I like the inexpensive acrylic stuff from Hobby Lobby)
  • An awl or sharp nail to poke starter holes
  • Some split rings and fishing hooks from a sporting goods store
  • A saw that will cut through a small wooden dowel

Lets get started. First, measure off a 3″ piece of your dowel and cut it off.

Not too hard so far… Next, put a pencil mark in the center of both ends the ends of the dowel, and poke starter holes there.

Put a screw eye into the holes in each end.

Next comes the shaping. Take the screw eyes back out, lay the 60 or 80 grit sandpaper on a flat surface, and drag the dowel toward you while slowly lifting the back end up.  Rotate the dowel a bit and continue.  The idea is just to round over the dowel until it looks like a cigar. You can speed this up with a wood rasp if you can lay hands on one.

After you have the ends of the dowel roughly rounded, pick it up, grab your sandpaper and get the rough off. If you want, you can sand it entirely smooth, or you can just sand a little bit.  I am pretty sure that the fish care do not care how beautiful your lure is. Use the finer sandpapers until you have the lure as smooth as you would like.

Here are two lures; the one from the pictures above and another that I sanded into a different  pointier shape.

I have the lures hanging from a coat hanger that I cut in two and bent up.  This holds them nicely while you spray primer on them. If you don’t want the fumes, you certainly do not have to use spray paint. I do, just to speed things up. Whatever paint you use, read and follow all the safety instructions…

I wanted my cigar shaped lure to have a fish scale pattern, so I wrapped it with tulle fabric.  Tulle is what you make butterfly nets out of when you are little. I got mine at Hobby Lobby.

I hold the lure by one of the screw eyes with a clamp or some pliers. Next, I lightly spray paint the lure over the mesh. After the paint dries, you get a scale effect.

One other traditional way to paint lures is all white with a red head.  The trick to getting the straight line on the red is by dipping instead of brushing or painting. First paint your lure all white. I used the non-toxic acrylics for this. With the acrylics, a hair dryer can shorten the time between coats.  I would not use the hair dryer with any paints that are solvent based.

Once the lure is all white, dip the end of the lure in the red paint.

The last cool bit of the painting is the eyes. There is a great trick for painting the eyes. I use a small piece of a dowel and a small nail. You dip the dowel (or a larger nail) in white paint and make a dot where you want the eye. Let this dry and dip the smaller nail into black paint and put a dot for the pupil.

Here is a pic of the two lures after the painting is done and I have clear coated them. You can use several coats of clear spray paint or polyurethane to get that nice shiny look and help the lures last longer.  Professional lure makers use a two part epoxy to coat their lures but that is certainly not necessary. I sometimes coat mine in Devcon 2 ton epoxy I get at the hardware store.

The last step is to put on the hooks. Poke a small starter hole about 1/3 of the way back from the head on the bottom of the lure. Put another screw eye in this hole. To hang the hooks, I like to use split rings. You can get them in the fishing section of sporting goods stores. These rings let you change the hooks easily if you break them.  The split rings are a little fussy to get on.  You can buy special split ring pliers (also in the sporting goods section) or you can just pry them open with the tiny screw driver that comes in a glasses repair kit. I will say, if you are going to do several lures – spring for the split ring pliers.  They make it easier to get the hooks on without getting poked.

Here is the finished lure.

Good luck and let me know how they turn out!

Jim

You Make My Heart Spin

Posted in Automata, Toy Making, Woodworking with tags , , , on February 15, 2014 by Jim

YouMakeMyHeartSpin

Happy Valentines day!

-J

 

Wheel spacing jig for toy wooden car wheels

Posted in Toy Making, Woodworking with tags , , , , , , on January 25, 2014 by Jim

Tonight, I had to make some wooden toy cars for a birthday party.

handmade toy wooden cars

I have always had a little trouble when using pre-made axles for toy wooden cars. I either sink the first axle too deep and the wheel will not turn. That, or I sink it too deep when I flip the car over to drive in the second axle. I needed something to stop all this silliness.

Tongue depressors save the day

spacing jig for wooden toy car wheels

I cut a notch in the end of two tongue depressors and laid them on the car body with the notch around the axle. When you drive the axle into the body, the tongue depressor stops it with just the right spacing. I made two so I can leave the first one in place when I drive the opposing axle in. This keeps me from sinking the first axle too deep when driving the second one.

I think that they will be well received at the party.

handmade wooden toy cars for birthday party

So, if you are making toys with little wooden axles – get yourself some tongue depressors.

Happy making,

Jim

Wooden Arrow Shaft Making Jig

Posted in Archery, Woodworking on August 21, 2012 by Jim

Someone asked if I would show my arrow shaft making jig today, so here it is:

I start by milling the wood that I am using to 3/8″ by 3/8″ by about 3′.

Here are some milled shafts with a square blank in the center.

The jig itself is a straightened piece of hardwood (anything will do probably) with small blocks affixed to the side with screws. I drilled through the center of each block and lined them with bronze bushing parts that I found at my local hardware store.

On my router, I replaced the base plate with a 3/8″ thick piece of Lexan. I drilled a hole in it and I drive a machine screw through to affix the arrow shaft jig to the base (In the previous picture, you can see I used a wing nut to tighten the machine screw) :

This machine screw is really critical. It allows me to pivot the base of the jig closer or further from the router bit. This allows me to fine tune the jig to get the exact thickness of shaft that I need for the arrows I am making.

I run a few test pieces through, pivoting the jig back and forth until I get the precise thickness I want. Once it is just right, I clamp the jig to my router table tightly:

Using a round over bit, I run all the shafts through. The line of bronze bushings is there to keep the shaft from whipping around as it spins at high speeds. Without these, things get kind of emotional. Ask me how I know…

I use a 3/8″ allen wrench head socket bit in my electric drill to hold my square stock. I chuck it into the drill backwards, with the allen wrench bit in the drill, and put the square stock into the socket end. This works just great to spin the square stock across the moving router bit:

All this allows me to make traditional archery wooden arrows from hardwoods that are difficult to find or just really expensive.

Here are a few from this jig:

Happy Making,

Jim

Old fashioned Wooden Tops

Posted in Toy Making, Wooden tops, Woodworking on January 9, 2012 by Jim

A friend found me a great used lathe recently. I was able to get it set up and work up a couple of new tops.

wooden tops

Happy Making,

Jim

Robin Whirligig – it’s too hot to go birdwatching

Posted in Birds, Toy Making, Whirligigs, Woodworking with tags , on August 11, 2010 by Jim

Far too hot to be serious, I needed a little silly

It has been to hot to go to the lake to get in any birdwatching. Whirligigs make me happy. So, there you have it – it had to be a new whirligig for the yard. Seriously, I love things that move and spin and whirl. This weeks shop fun was a little robin whirligig:

Cedar Robin Whirlygig

He is cedar painted with latex house paint and held up on a brass spindle.

Happy Making,

Jim